Kasavu Auspicious Balaramapuram weaves for the Kerala bride

Come Onam, Kerala’s identity morphs into its version in a pristine kasavu saree or kasavu mundu. A lot of them also opt to wear the mundum neriyathum, or the two-piece drape (set mundu), in beautiful zari patterns or with simple colour stripes on the border. These sarees are a perfect backdrop to intricate gold jewellery and white jasmine flowers. Set against the verdant greenery of the state and the colourful floral carpets decorating each house, Kasavu textiles enhance the festive mood of hope and tradition. For most Malayalees, a Kasavu saree symbolises the happiness of homecoming and nostalgia.

Image Credit: Pinterest

The Kerala Royal Lady, a much admired painting by Raja Ravi Varma showcased a luminiscent Balaramapuram zari saree.  The ivory and gold sarees are a radiant features of his famous paintings including the famous Here comes Papa.  The radiance of a Kerala Hindu bride in a stunning handwoven Kasavu saree has made this saree and its ivory and gold combination an all-time classic wedding trend. An essential in the trousseau of most brides, the Balaramapuram is a sacred garment created following age-old traditions.The sacred textiles of Balaramapuram were considered essential as the ‘pudava’ in many Hindu wedding ceremonies. Undyed, spun with silver and gold tthreads, andhhandwoven, these represent the unbroken continuity of traditional costume creation.

Image Credits: Lady with flower Garland by Raja Ravi Varma / Pinterest

Image Credits: Here comes Papa by Raja Ravi Varma/ Amazon

Balaramapuram weaving flourished under the Travancore Royal family’s patronage. Balaramapuram, home to the weaving community, was named after Maharaja Avittam Thirunal Balarama Varma, the king who welcomed the community from Tamil Nadu to Thiruvananthapuram. The entire village was well-designed to suit the requirements of the community, including the streets, which were perfectly laid to help in the warping of the textiles. In Balarampuram, the traditional practices of street warping and brush sizing are still followed. This weave is eco-friendly with the use of natural materials that are locally sourced and plentiful: coconut oil, rice starch, and so on. Throw shuttle pit looms are widely used in Balaramapuram; these are considered to be more suitable for the fine zari used for the sarees. Natural reeds made of bamboo used in the looms allow the weavers to create higher quality in the fabric, as well as handle the delicate gold zari. These looms also support the design of intricate motifs created with a lace weaving technique with extra warp and weft. This unique hand weaving technique results in ian identicalpattern of the zari pattern on both sides of the cloth. This unique stamp of handwoven Balaramapuram sarees lend them a sophistication that is appreciated by the most discerning of buyers.

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The weavers of Balaramapuram fashioned beautiful garments that were intended for use by the royal family and were used for gifting guests of the family as well as for temple festivities. This stunning textile, simple yet refined, became the byword for elegance and royalty. Though kara was the hallmark of Balaramapuram’s textiles, the addition of pure Zari from Surat added to the richness of the fabric. Members of the royal family used Zari in their garments as a fashion statement. The Zari was originally made of fine silver threads covered with gold. Subtle ‘puliyila kara’ and gracious temple borders woven into rich cotton sarees are unique to this weaving village, all with a signature ‘kuri’ design.

The Balaramapuram saree is Kerala’s first GI-tagged handloom product. They represent the beauty of a vibrant textile culture. The superfineness of the natural cotton, the use of gold borders, and the natural colours keep it eco-friendly and suited to tropical climates. Balaramapuram textiles have a vibrant history and cultural significance. Every saree is an heirloom to wear and cherish. Designers constantly experiment with lending contemporary touches to the visual presentation of the weave, yet they too remain rooted in the inherent artistic heritage of the textile tradition.